Even though we’ve been stationary for the past two months, our time in the Keys is fleeting and our days are filled with activity. From mundane tasks like buying groceries, washing dishes, and catching up on a little RV maintenance, to more adventurous options like exploring new places in the Keys and the ever-present chances to fish, we’re never at a loss for something to do. Although life here tends to be laid-back, it’s far from lazy. There’s always a festival taking place in Key West, a community event happening in the neighborhood, opportunities to make music around town, and more than enough chances to meet people for a drink and conversation. As we were planning our extended stay for the winter, I naively wondered how I’d spend the time and considered searching for volunteer options or maybe even a part-time job just for fun. Turns out I didn’t have to search for anything, as opportunities and activities abound and the only real issue is deciding which to choose each day.

While hurricane debris is still a common sight, civic and municipal authorities continue working to clean the streets, canals, and neighborhoods throughout the Keys. In early January we participated in a Boca Chica Road clean-up day organized by members of the Geiger Key community. Residents bundled in coats and hats (hey, it was a cool 60 degrees in the Keys that morning!) gathered with gloves, rakes, garbage cans, and determination to scour the roadside and mangroves of trash and debris. Everyone’s efforts paid off as the municipal waste haulers removing our piles from the sides of the road throughout the day reported collecting nearly 40 tons of broken concrete, damaged household goods, discarded plastic bottles, and any manner of trash.

We’d probably be content enjoying sunsets from the marina and walking along Geiger Beach after accomplishing our chores each day, and it’s not hard to see why. After helping with a random project, like doing what I can to assist in building a work table or changing the oil in the RV for the first time, it’s nice to gather with friends and neighbors to watch the sunset beside the water – especially on nights with live music at the marina, as I continue to play as much as possible during our remaining time here. From open mic nights, to occasionally sitting in with that evening’s featured performer, I’m extremely grateful for any opportunity to play my sax with other musicians.

When I first heard about the Crooks Annual Second Line on the local radio station, I knew I wanted to participate if at all possible. In traditional New Orleans style, a second line is a parade following a funeral celebrating the life of the individual who recently passed. The Crooks Second Line started as a memorial to a popular Key West musician, Richard Crooks, and has grown over the past few years into a tribute to loved ones lost during the past year and a fundraiser for the Bahama Village Music Program, which provides free musical education for children in Key West. Not knowing what to expect on the day of the event, Ashley and I made our way into downtown Key West and joined the party in the Hog’s Breath parking lot. Over the next hour or two, the crowd quickly swelled as musicians trickled in and participants gathered holding placards with photos of their lost friends and family. Before I knew it, we were marching down Duval Street playing unrehearsed versions of standard tunes, like Down by the Riverside, Take the A Train, and of course the classic When the Saints Go Marching In. We’ve only been to New Orleans a couple of times, and this little taste of the musical tradition there has us considering a stop with the RV as we head west later this year.

Check out this short video to see some footage from the second line parade.

Although we don’t have to wander far from Geiger Key to find activities, we continue to explore downtown Key West as well as some of the other islands along the Keys. While we tend to avoid the most crowded sections of Duval Street, we do enjoy the occasional morning stroll around the Key West Marina and Bight areas, checking out the various boats at the docks and observing some of the colorful wildlife (generally tourists nursing hangovers) along the way. Speaking of tourists, if you’d like to wait in line to get a photo standing by the Southernmost Point, please be our guest – we’ll wave from the sidewalk across the street as we head around the corner.

We’ve heard people mention the produce stands and occasional treasured discovery at a market in Big Pine, so we ventured to the Big Pine Flea Market one sunny Saturday and strolled through the open air stalls browsing the wares on display. We didn’t return with much other than a couple of pairs of cheap (but needed) sunglasses and used needle nose pliers to replace a pair I dropped in the canal after returning from a kayak fishing trip. Speaking of the lost pliers, that day I also took an unplanned and quite unexpected swim in the canal while unloading the kayak. Handy tip – don’t overextend your reach while sitting in a kayak and placing a cooler on the float, especially when your anchor is resting on the same float.

On the way back from the flea market, our friend recommended stopping by the nearby Blue Hole since we hadn’t seen it before. Now part of the National Key Deer Refuge, the Blue Hole was originally excavated as part of a limestone quarry. The hole contains dense, non-porous limestone referred to as a freshwater lens which fills with rainwater over time. The rainwater floats on top of the saltwater, creating a unique ecosystem for the plants and animals sharing the space. It’s an interesting stop, and while you certainly won’t spend an entire day there, it’s a good place to pull over and stretch your legs while walking the short nature trail. You might also spot an American alligator or two making home in the freshwater wetlands or even the fabled Key deer if you arrive at the right time of day.

We didn’t spot any Key deer at the Blue Hole, but on a separate trip to No Name Key we finally had our first glimpse of the protected tiny deer. I was convinced the existence of these deer was an elaborate hoax played on visitors and newcomers, having never seen a single deer during our time in the Keys. But sure enough, as the sun sets on No Name Key, groups of Key deer emerge from the mangroves and surrounding wetlands, appearing in people’s yard, along the roads, and in parking lots. They look like the familiar (to us) whitetail deer, exactly scaled to miniature form. A female Key deer could easily be mistaken for a whitetail fawn, but the bucks have tiny, full-grown antlers which complete the miniaturized spectacle. When the refuge was established in 1957, fewer than 50 Key deer remained in the Lower Keys due to uncontrolled hunting. The deer population has since increased, but the endangered deer remain protected and can only be found in the Florida Keys.

On yet another sunny Saturday, we accompanied Ashley’s dad on a road trip to Islamorada, home of the closest Bass Pro Shop and the Islamorada Beer Company. After sampling some of the beers, which were suprisingly good, considering the only one we can generally find outside of the brewery isn’t that great, we wandered Bass Pro and toured their version of the Pilar, Earnest Hemingway’s prized fishing boat. Both ships were built in the early 1930s at different shipyards in Brooklyn and are nearly identical, save for a few modifications made to Hemingway’s actual Pilar. Legend holds that Hemingway first saw this boat and fished from it in 1933 before leaving for an African safari. He took a brochure from the Wheeler Boat Yard along with him, and after returning to New York in 1934 he placed an order for the Wheeler Playmate Cabin Cruiser, soon to be christened the Pilar. Both ships participated in World War II, Hemingway’s Pilar armed and outfitted to hunt German submarines in the waters off Cuba, and the one-year older sister ship called to duty with the Navy in Key West. After leading storied lives and taking central roles in many tales, both ships now have permanent anchorage – one in a Bass Pro Shop in Islamorada, while the original Pilar resides in Cuba at Hemingway’s old homestead.

Fishing boats are an iconic and integral part of life in the Keys, with residents maintaining boats of all shapes and sizes for fishing, entertaining on the water, and even transportation. Irma damaged and sunk thousands of boats throughout the Keys, and as people seek to reset after the hurricane the boating industry has obviously been affected. Ashley’s father’s boat sustained damage during the hurricane and he took the opportunity to replace the damaged boat with a new seaworthy model. While the boat is nearly finished, he’s still waiting on delivery of a motor which has been delayed due to the increased demand for replacements. A boat is certainly a luxury, as we all realize, but so much time is spent on the water here that it usually takes center stage and becomes the default option of what to do on any given day.

So to fill the void of the fishing boat, we continue to find alternative ways to fish. I’m usually the only stalwart still fishing from the seawall in the canal regularly, but kayak fishing draws more participants, as well as the occasional trip to the bridge down the road. While friends were visiting for a vacation, Ashley’s dad booked a charter so he could treat them to a day on the water. I gladly tagged along to practice my novice angling abilities and attempt to learn a few more techniques. After finding schools of ballyhoo – a long, slender fish colored blue and green, with a small pointed bill – the captain cast his net and hauled in the live bait to begin our day of fishing.

We started with a couple of Crevalle jacks which we released, then found a location for yellowtail snapper and began pulling the plump, silver and yellow fish onboard, along with a few mackerel. As the morning grew to a close, two of our lines each hooked into something heavy and after probably 30 minutes of back and forth struggle, moving the boat, and working up a sweat, we discovered we had two large nurse sharks on our lines. This was yet another learning experience for me, as I received instruction (and some good-natured ribbing, naturally) from the captain and worked to reel in a heavy, seemingly immovable shark on light tackle. We eventually brought both sharks to the surface, snapped a few pictures, and sent both back on their way, happy (I’m assuming) to not have someone yanking on the hooks stuck in their mouths any longer.

After watching the captain net live bait from his boat, I thought that would be a good skill to practice. So after a morning of browsing instructional YouTube videos and getting tips from Ashley’s dad, I spent the afternoon throwing a cast net and avoiding any humorous incidents. No animals or small children were harmed in the process. I’m looking forward to trying this for real sometime from on deck in the open ocean.

We know we’ll be back on the road soon, and we’re once again looking forward to exploring the country and visiting with more family and friends. But we’ll continue to enjoy our limited time here and look forward to whatever adventures still await on our temporary island home. Thanks again for reading and we hope everyone is enjoying the winter!